How to travel India in 30 days : A trip to the most iconic landmark in India

Agra, home to the magnificent monument dedicated to an Emperors eternal love.


Day 8 – Agra

Our overnight train from Varanasi is delayed so we don’t arrive until closer to midday. Delays are fairly common so it’s handy to have a supply of food just in case, as you might not know when you’ll next be eating. Unlike our previous train journey which served a breakfast option, this train does not, so we are both famished. We take a short ride in an auto-rickshaw to our hotel which is the Seven Hills Tower, and I am pretty impressed. Kevin has decided to splash out on two

The perfect way to spend a birthday!
nights of ‘flashpacking’ (basically swapping the cheap hostels for something a little more fancy) for my 27th birthday. There is also the possibility to do a day visit to Agra from New Delhi if you are tight on time, as there are various trains running daily between the two cities. It’s such a nice luxury to have our own room with a huge king-size bed, a TV, amazing AC, and there’s even a rooftop pool. We spend my birthday by the pool with a few Kingfishers beers. I was certainly in need of one of these days, simply recharging from the travelling and the constant hustle & bustle that India throws at you.

The hotel has a rooftop restaurant too with a varied menu so we head there for dinner. A full Indian feast is served and it is delicious, a perfect way to end my birthday, I guess 27 isn’t too bad after all!

Day 9 – Agra

Today has definitely been one of the highlights of the trip so far for me. An early start and a 5 minute rickshaw ride takes us to the Westgate of the Taj Mahal. The sun is yet to rise so its still quite dark as we walk towards the ticket booth, where the tourists are already starting to arrive. As expected, yet another crazy difference in ticket prices, 1000 INR for foreigners and 40 INR for Indian nationals! Something that would be highly discriminatory if enforced back home in the U.K.


Upon purchasing our expensive ticket you receive a free bottle of water and a pair of shoe covers to use in certain areas. When visiting the Taj Mahal, I would recommend taking as little as possible; camera, sunglasses, sunscreen if visiting during the day and maybe something light to keep you warm if visiting during the early morning hours for the sunrise. The more you take, the more likely the staff will ask you to put your bag in a locker which is a 10 minute walk from the main entrance and you will be charged 20 INR too which is what happened to us! Thankfully this doesn’t cut too much into us managing to get through the gates before the sun rises.

As we walk through the main archway entrance, the spectacular site comes into view. It’s quite a surreal feeling to actually see the Taj Mahal in person, one of the Seven Wonders of the World. There is an option to have a guide show you around, however if choosing to do so make sure to prearrange, or else you may end up with an unregistered guide who may charge a much higher price than a genuine guide.

There are so many photo opportunities so take advantage whilst enjoying the beautiful surroundings. Unfortunately you have to be lucky to get a snap without the crowds of people getting in the way, just like the iconic photograph of Princess Diana back in 1992 who didn’t have that same problem.

Making the most of the photo opportunities 
After a few hours of admiring the Taj Mahal we visit the Agra Fort before the midday heat kicks in. If you decide to visit both attractions, it’s useful to keep hold of the entry ticket from the Taj Mahal as it allows a small discount on the ticket price of 50 INR.

Agra Fort 
The sky still appears misty, possibly due to a blanket of pollution, and in the nearby distance the Taj Mahal looks even brighter and exactly how it looks on photographs. We decide to spend the rest of the day making the most of the pool before heading back to true backpacking life.

Find out what we got up to at our next destination here.

Have you ever visited the Taj Mahal? What do you think about the huge difference in ticket prices? We would love to hear about your thoughts & experiences!

Feel free to let me know what you thought of this article, I always love feedback and finding ways how to improve my writing!



How to travel India in 30 days : First stop Kolkata, West Bengal

Welcome to India! Find out our first impressions after stepping into this colourful, intense and incredibly diverse country for the first time!

Day 1 – Kathmandu > Kolkata

Today is our final day in Nepal, and what an amazing two weeks it has been! The trekking here is great and we would definitely recommend it. We have found the people very friendly, especially those living in the mountainous areas where they all greet you with “Namaste”, meaning “Hello” in Nepali.

Masala Omelette

In Nepal festivals are numerous, one of the most anticipated being Dashain, as it is the longest and most auspicious. This particular festival celebrates the victory of good over evil. One of the main days of Dashain is in fact today, so many street vendors and eateries are closed and the streets of Thamel are much quieter than normal. We try our luck at Phat Kath, a cafe that we eaten in the day before and surprisingly they are open. According to the water they are open 365 days a year, perfect! I sample a Nepali breakfast which includes a chapatti of course, a masala omelette, fried potatoes with onions & peppers and a lassi style yoghurt (you will find out more about these later on). Apparently the chapatti should be dipped into the yoghurt, and it is strangely tasty!

Upon arriving at the airport for our flight, we discover that the visa forms for India I have printed are in fact the application forms and not the actual visa! Thankfully the check in staff allow us to use the Wi-Fi to access our visa and the issue is resolved, but a word of advice, the confirmation to say the visa has been granted is what you actually need!

After a slightly bumpy start, but a short journey of 1hour 15minutes  with Air India we start to descend into a very green looking Kolkata. Once off the flight and through to immigration, it’s clear that the man behind the desk isn’t happy about our lack of correct paperwork. But after a signature verification and a few questions about the where’s and when’s of our trip we are finally into India!

The best way into the city is with one of the trademark yellow taxis of Kolkata. If you pay in the main arrival area, the cost should be no more than 455 INR which will get you into the central areas. I get the impression that not all taxi drivers are very familiar with the city as they should be due to the constant asking for directions, but we eventually arrive at our accommodation which is in the Taltala area of Kolkata on Doctor Lane. From looking online, hostels in the city don’t appear to be plentiful, so we opted for the Georgian Inn, a basic yet relatively comfortable guesthouse.

We steal some tips and advice from the few Western tourists staying there too, and decide to head out with one Australian guy who recommends a local eatery just yards away. Stepping out into the evening streets and already we feel the intensity that is India, lots of gawping stares, beeping mopeds and crazy smells.

The food is a spicy vegetable style curry served with slightly mouldy chapatti bread, but for a small price of 70 INR how on earth can you complain! Its certainly not somewhere where you will bump into many other tourists, however that’s the joy of these places. You really get a true taste of the local culture!

Day 2 – Exploring Kolkata

Without any particular plan for the day, we head out into the street of Kolkata. They are exactly how I imagined India to be, and it is certainly not a country for those afraid of embracing the wonderful culture India has to offer.With a population of just over 1.3 billion, and many of the countries people living in poverty,it really opened our eyes as to how lucky we really are.

Bustling streets of Kolkata

We wonder further through the streets, map in hand, as it is very easy to get lost and despite much of the population having knowledge of English, it can often be difficult to communicate especially when asking for directions.  The train booking office is on our route, located on Fairlie Place, so we pop by in the hope of booking a ticket for our onward journey to Varanasi the following day. However be warned, this process is not as quick and easy as you may imagine. For purchasing tickets you must fill in an application form and wait for the number to be called, and remember to carry your passport when doing so or else you could be refused a ticket! The wait in this particular office was around 3 hours, so it may be worth buying several tickets if you have an itinerary planned, to save further waiting elsewhere. In our experience, this was the longest we had to wait for tickets, however there are always unorganised queues in many of the booking offices so be prepared to be patient.

The remainder of the day is spent walking what feels like miles throughout the city, with a very shameful stop off at a Dominoes Pizza outlet. From now on we’ve agreed its local cuisine only!

Day 3 – Kolkata > Varanasi

Today we take the night train to Varanasi, our next destination, leaving us with the full day to see a little more of the city. Another wonder through the crowded streets takes us to Victoria Memorial, a popular spot for tourists and slightly similar looks wise to the Taj Mahal due to its white colour and grand gardens.

India Travels - Kolkata - Victoria Memorial.jpg
Victoria Memorial

Its a small fee of 70 INR to enter the gardens, however to the price to enter the palace itself is a slight difference between 100 INR for Indian nationals and 700 INR for foreign tourists, something that we noticed with the price for a lot of other things! Its a beautiful break from the hustle and bustle of the chaotic streets. We soon realise that the memorial isn’t the only thing being photographed, and that we ourselves are a popular attraction amongst the Indian tourists! It’s a nice feeling to make their day, as many of them don’t often see Caucasian people. St Paul’s Anglican Cathedral is another interesting site to see the history left behind following the British rule over India.

To compensate for our lack of Indian cuisine so far, we eat at Blue Sky Cafe located in the Sudder Street area, which is a must if you are looking for a tasty and varied menu at budget prices.

The chaos at Howrah Junction

Our train leaves from Howrah Junction railway station, which is in fact the oldest and busiest in India. The station itself is as hectic as you would imagine, people rushing to and from trains, and we even spot a tiny puppy wondering aimlessly amongst the chaos. You will find that there are also lots of beggars, and its difficult not to give them money, however we were always recommended not to, as this will only encourage it. Trains in India are divided into classes from 1st to 5th, some of which have AC and basic bunk-beds, others have no windows and have minimal space for sleeping. We opted for 3rd class tickets, which is essentially means that there are three bunk-beds per row as well as much need air-conditioning! I imagine that 1st and 2nd class are much nicer, if your budget stretches to this.

We were advised to buy a chain to lock up luggage onto the bars beneath the seats, as there have been reports of thefts so its better to be safe than sorry! As this was our first experience on a sleeper train we decided to keep our backpacks on the the bunk-beds while we slept, slightly uncomfortable being two tall people. The train is compact with not much space to move around especially when there are six people in one small compartment, but the advantage is having your own bed with complimentary towels and sheets.  It is possible to buy food and drinks on the train, but only to purchase from the those working on-board and not strangers, as there have been reports of items being drugged, so beware! Many of the Indian travellers on the other hand are very much prepared for the long journey, bringing with them a selection of food.

Once we both manage to get comfortable, after a few disputes over who’s seat was who’s (something which happens on almost all trains), it was time to try and catch a few hours of uninterrupted sleep  on the 14 hour journey!

Find out what we got up to at our next destination here.

What were your first impression’s of India? How did you find the sleeper train experience? We would love to hear about your thoughts & experiences!

Feel free to let me know what you thought of this article, I always love feedback and finding ways how to improve my writing!