Lisbon Travel Tips: Sardines, Sintra and Seven Hills

Earlier this year I had noticed that the Portuguese capital of Lisbon had appeared several times on various lists of “Places to visit in 2017” so decided it was a city that had to be explored and headed there for a short break.

The city really does hit the high marks when it comes to the cuisine, climate, culture and of course value for money – which let’s face it we all love whilst travelling to new destinations. Find out the highlights from the time spent in the capital…

How to get around Lisbon

Lisbon is famous for being built on seven hills, with each one having their own story to tell and viewpoints which uncover the hidden corners of the city. So as you can imagine the landscape is far from flat meaning it can prove difficult to get around and climbing up and down those hills is certainly not for the faint-hearted!

Typical terrain in the capital

However, there are a number of other ways to take in the city such as the traditional style Portuguese tram which covers most of the highest points or the “tuk-tuk” which is very similar to the popular method of transport in many Asian countries. There are efficient bus, train and metro services operating in and around the city centre, and all accessed using a reusable Viva Viagem paper transport card which can be bought

Quirky & coloured streets

in any of the main stations for €0.50 and topped up as required. This card also allows the use of trams if you fancy something a little traditional. We mainly opted for the option of walking throughout the city which was a pleasant but often a very tiring way of taking in the city at our own pace. You will be sure to find hidden gems around every corner which you may never find unless you are walking.

A free walking tour is an active and budget-friendly way to find out a little more about a new place upon arriving as it can help determine how you might spend the time you have in the city. There were various agencies offering similar tours, however, our tour was run by Sandmans and commenced in the central point of Praca Luis de Camoes.

View over Lisbon from Elevador de Santa Justa

Our guide Rita took us to various locations of historical significance in the evolution of Lisbon and Portugal itself throughout the centuries – a country whose history I had little knowledge of prior to the tour. It really is a great way to find your bearings and get a glimpse of places slightly off the tourist trail, not forgetting some handy tips from a local themselves! Despite them being advertised as FREE, the tour guide will often mention giving a tip at the end of the tour if you were, of course, satisfied with your experience, so feel free to give as much or as little as you feel worth.

What to do in Lisbon

Rent bikes

If you have an active side to you, exploring the country along the stunning Atlantic coastline can be seen from the back of a bicycle. The city is not short of places to rent bikes, however, due to its recent positive reviews, we chose to go through the Lisbon Bike Rentals. The Monster Bike as it was known, is not the typical sort of bicycle you might usually try, as on first glance the huge tyres gave it a look of something very fierce and powerful.

Modelling the Monster Bike

For a full 9 hours, we had access for €33 (as well as a fully refundable deposit which can be done by providing credit card details) giving us the chance to explore some slightly less crowded spots along the stretch of coast West of Lisbon centre in the direction of Cascais and beyond. Most of the coastal route was well designed for cyclists and our battery power assist allowed us to cover a round trip of almost 70km. There is, of course, the option to try the up and down route to explore the hills of Lisbon as the power assist makes the bike the perfect tool to tackle them if you are looking for a challenge in the mid-September heat.

A day trip to Sintra

This picturesque town located in the foothills of the Sintra Mountains can be easily reached by a direct train of 40 minutes from the Rossio station. Due to its position standing 1,300 ft above sea level, it is not uncommon to see a layer of mist towards the direction of the Atlantic coast which gives an air of mystery.

View over the town of Sintra

The attraction for many to Sintra is the National Palace, the construction of which was started in the 14^th century and is certainly an impressive piece of architecture. Entry to the palace grounds is free on a Sunday however if you are visiting any other day of the week the typical price is around €8 to access the park and palace terraces, but it is possible to simply walk through the grounds and enjoy the scenery from above without paying anything. The hilly town is also lined with pretty side streets where you can find various eateries and some interesting vendors selling souvenirs or a handmade craft. After making the trip up and back down the hill to the National Palace, a drink of local Port in one of the squares whilst peacefully people watching was the perfect way to recharge.

Exploring the coastline

If you get the chance, a trip away from the hustle of a capital city to the coastal areas is worth it. Cascais is a coastal resort town just west of Lisbon and can be reached by a short train ride from the Cais do Sodré station. There are three main bays in the town all attracting both local and overseas tourists and we found that the weekends tend to be busier even in one of the slightly more secluded coves.

Exploring the Atlantic coastline

There are also several beaches which you can choose to stop off at along the train route to Cascais, or if you prefer something more active there is the option to rent bikes in the town and travel further up the coast towards the Parque Natural de Sintra-Cascais. As we had already sampled the monster bikes, we opted for the slightly less strenuous route on foot, wandering around the cobbled streets then stopping off at one of the many beachside bars.

Wondering around Alfama

Alfama is one of the oldest districts in Lisbon and is a great way to see a glimpse of the Portuguese past as you wander through the maze of narrow cobbled streets and beautifully tiled ancient buildings.

The view from Miradouro das Portas do Sol

In the past Alfama was known for being home to the poor and disadvantaged population of Lisbon but now it has a very different reputation. Around every corner or steep climb, we found something different whether it was a unique artisan shop or a quirky cafe, where we sampled our first Pastel de Nata – the egg custard tart pastry typical in Portugal which is a must try!  As the sun sets over the city for another day, there are several viewpoints to look out over the city, one being Miradouro das Portas do Sol which is where our Sunday evening was spent listening to a lone busker amongst a very warm and laid back vibe. There are many attractions in the Alfama district which have an entry fee such as the castle and several museums however we prefer to veer away from the tourist trail and get lost for free in the maze of this charming district.

Where to stay in Lisbon

Air BnB

Staying with locals is something I would highly recommend from our experience. The phenomenon is pretty big in Lisbon with so much choice in accommodation. We stayed in a beautiful apartment with four Portuguese nationals, located on Rua President Arriaga, just West of the centre but very easy to access by public transport and well under €5 for one way in an Uber from any central location (an app that was well used during our stay).

Sunset over the capital

As the area is very close to the cargo shipping docks, this meant that we had the best views of the Ponte 25 de abril, which allowed for some great sunset and sunrise photography. The residents of the apartment were very welcoming and more than happy to give advice on what not to miss include some excellent foodie tips, which I shall share with you later.

Good food in Lisbon

Choosing the best background

One of the specialities in Portugal is the pastel de nata, which is essentially the Portuguese version of an egg custard tart. They were in fact created before the 18th century by the Catholic monks of the Jerónimos Monastery in the civil parish of Santa Maria de Belém, in Lisbon, where the Pasteis de Belen bakery still stands as a popular tourist spot for trying out the sweet treat. There are however so many other places in the city where you can try the staple food of the sweet-toothed Portuguese.

 

Estrella da Bica Tv. do Cabral 33, 1200-054 Lisboa

Monkfish with a lentil & mango curry and Seitan with mashed potatoes & a vegetable selection

This was recommended by the Air BnB hosts so we knew it would not disappoint. The restaurant has a bohemian, bistro style ambience serving a mixture of Portuguese and Brazilian style dishes. We arrived around 1030pm on a Saturday evening and still had to wait in the street whilst a table became vacant, (which shows the popularity of this place), however, we were able to order drinks and enjoy the weekend vibe in the Barrio Alto part of Lisbon.The main menu changes daily and includes three dishes based on either a meat, fish and vegetarian option so there is something for everyone. The starters are great to nibble on whilst waiting for the main meals and are around €5-€10 depending on what you choose. This was certainly a restaurant offering amazing value for money, with the bill coming to around €30 per person for three courses and plenty of wine. A culinary experience not to miss!

Hamburgueria do Bairro 1200 484, Tv. Abarracamento de Peniche 22

We found this one by accident as we were actually on route to another restaurant, which looked less appealing so we stumbled upon this great eatery, located at the top of some steep hills on the corner of two streets. There is plenty of choice when it comes to the burgers, both meat and vegetarian options. The restaurant is one of several in the city but has taken the simple idea of a burger and fries, turning it into an exciting tasting experience.

Tasty burger choices

Ekvilibro R. Dr. Alfredo da Costa 60, 2710-246 Sintra

During a day trip to the town of Sintra, we sampled the healthy menu of this retreat style restaurant, where they offer various workshops for the mind, body and soul as well as a selection of clean eating options. The idea of choosing Ekvilibrio for the name comes from the concept of creating balance in life between aspects such as diet, along with physical and mental energy. Eating options come in the form of set menus, one of which was the €7 choice which

A plate full of colour

included carrot soup,  a veggie burger patty with a colourful salad and a speciality ginger tea.

Tao 1100 026, R. dos Douradores 10, 1100-026 Lisboa

Another great vegan-friendly, organic option is situated in a building full of character. On first impressions, it might not look like the most glamorous place to eat, but the place is full of locals which creates a good feeling about the food. The entrance floor is small and crowded, but if you head upstairs you enter a more relaxed atmosphere where you choose a spot and sit cross-legged at a low table or on one of the many floor cushions. There is a selection of plates depending on your level of hunger, the most expensive being a bargain €7 for four main dishes such as seitan, black bean stew, mixed vegetables or couscous and several side salad options.

Os Bons Malandros R. da Bica de Duarte Belo 51, 1200-054 Lisboa

This was another great find located in the Barrio Alto district, with a very bright and chic

The perfect sweet finish! 

atmosphere. The main menu isn’t too complicated but incorporates various fish dishes so it’s easy to try the sardine speciality of Lisbon! The staff are so welcoming and helpful, advising on the most suitable wine, and just before closing too. This allowed us to satisfy our sweet tooth, as we tucked into a carrot cake and fruit combination, and a divine strawberry and basil cheesecake with white chocolate ice-cream, the delicious combination that we had previously tried and loved!

 

Jardim das Cerajas Calçada Sacramento 36, 1200 Lisboa

A vegan cafe hidden in one of the many hilly and cobbled streets that cover most of the city. The cafe maintains quite an informal setup taking the style of a serve yourself buffet, which creates a very chilled vibe. This place certainly offers great value at €7.50 for an all you can eat lunch, washed down with a bottle of the Portuguese

 

beer Super Bock. Dishes are not labelled so it is very much a guessing game of choosing something from the buffet selection that takes your fancy. The food ranges from salad options to stew style dishes along with a range of small appetiser bites, all of which are based on veganism and is a perfect way of refuelling after exploring the Seven Hills of Lisbon.

 

 

 

 

 

Have you visited or have plans to visit the Portuguese capital? Are there any other recommendations that we missed? We would love to hear your thoughts & experiences!

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Feel free to let me know what you thought of this article, I always love feedback and finding ways how to improve my writing!

 

How to travel India in 30 days : A trip to the most iconic landmark in India

Day 8 – Agra

Our overnight train from Varanasi is delayed so we don’t arrive until closer to midday. Delays are fairly common so it’s handy to have a supply of food just in case, as you might not know when you’ll next be eating. Unlike our previous train journey which served a breakfast option, this train does not, so we are both famished. We take a short ride in an auto-rickshaw to our hotel which is the Seven Hills Tower, and I am pretty impressed. Kevin has decided to splash out on two

The perfect way to spend a birthday!

nights of ‘flashpacking’ (basically swapping the cheap hostels for something a little more fancy) for my 27th birthday. There is also the possibility to do a day visit to Agra from New Delhi if you are tight on time, as there are various trains running daily between the two cities. It’s such a nice luxury to have our own room with a huge king-size bed, a TV, amazing AC, and there’s even a rooftop pool. We spend my birthday by the pool with a few Kingfishers beers. I was certainly in need of one of these days, simply recharging from the travelling and the constant hustle & bustle that India throws at you.

The hotel has a rooftop restaurant too with a varied menu so we head there for dinner. A full Indian feast is served and it is delicious, a perfect way to end my birthday, I guess 27 isn’t too bad after all!

Day 9 – Agra

Today has definitely been one of the highlights of the trip so far for me. An early start and a 5 minute rickshaw ride takes us to the Westgate of the Taj Mahal. The sun is yet to rise so its still quite dark as we walk towards the ticket booth, where the tourists are already starting to arrive. As expected, yet another crazy difference in ticket prices, 1000 INR for foreigners and 40 INR for Indian nationals! Something that would be highly discriminatory if enforced back home in the U.K.

Upon purchasing our expensive ticket you receive a free bottle of water and a pair of shoe covers to use in certain areas. When visiting the Taj Mahal, I would recommend taking as little as possible; camera, sunglasses, sunscreen if visiting during the day and maybe something light to keep you warm if visiting during the early morning hours for the sunrise. The more you take, the more likely the staff will ask you to put your bag in a locker which is a 10 minute walk from the main entrance and you will be charged 20 INR too which is what happened to us! Thankfully this doesn’t cut too much into us managing to get through the gates before the sun rises.

As we walk through the main archway entrance, the spectacular site comes into view. It’s quite a surreal feeling to actually see the Taj Mahal in person, one of the Seven Wonders of the World. There is an option to have a guide show you around, however if choosing to do so make sure to prearrange, or else you may end up with an unregistered guide who may charge a much higher price than a genuine guide.

There are so many photo opportunities so take advantage whilst enjoying the beautiful surroundings. Unfortunately you have to be lucky to get a snap without the crowds of people getting in the way, just like the iconic photograph of Princess Diana back in 1992 who didn’t have that same problem.

Making the most of the photo opportunities 

After a few hours of admiring the Taj Mahal we visit the Agra Fort before the midday heat kicks in. If you decide to visit both attractions, it’s useful to keep hold of the entry ticket from the Taj Mahal as it allows a small discount on the ticket price of 50 INR.

Agra Fort 

The sky still appears misty, possibly due to a blanket of pollution, and in the nearby distance the Taj Mahal looks even brighter and exactly how it looks on photographs. We decide to spend the rest of the day making the most of the pool before heading back to true backpacking life.

Find out what we got up to at our next destination here.

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Have you ever visited the Taj Mahal? What do you think about the huge difference in ticket prices? We would love to hear about your thoughts & experiences!

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Feel free to let me know what you thought of this article, I always love feedback and finding ways how to improve my writing!

 

 

How to travel India in 30 days : Embracing the spiritual capital that is Varanasi

Day 4 – Varanasi

After a 14 hour train journey we finally arrive in Varanasi to be greeted by the intense morning heat and a bunch of hassling auto rickshaw drivers who persist in driving us to our hostel. This is a common sight at train stations, and everywhere for that matter, where each driver frantically competes to agree the cheapest price. Our accommodation is only a 15 minute rickshaw ride away to the Zostel Hostel, India’s first chain of hostels on the backpacking scene which is gradually growing. The staff are very helpful and offer various trips to ensure you get a taste of all that Varanasi has to offer.

After catching up on some sleep, we head out into the even bigger chaos that is Varanasi. Despite having a lower population, the roads are insane with no structure, not even paths, so the aim is to walk along with the traffic and attempt to avoid running into cars, rickshaws and even cows!

Hustle & bustle in Varanasi streets

As you approach the main Dashashwamedh Ghat, the streets become lined with vendors selling all types of things. I notice some older Indian men dressed in orange robes, all with long beards and wearing white face paint. These are in fact holy men known as sadhus in the Hindu religion, spending most of their lives away from everyday society. The ghat is filled with people, as preparations are being made for the nightly ceremony whereby the River Ganges is worshipped. Taking in all of the chaos, we take a moment to reflect that we are in Varanasi, the most holy place in India.

We are recommended by the hostel to try Keshari, a nearby restaurant serving mostly vegetarian dishes. The meal consists of five small dishes containing different curries, rice and of course the necessary chapatti and poppadom. Our first proper Indian platter and it is absolutely divine!

Delicious curry dishes at Keshari restaurant

The evening ceremony known as Agni Pooja (Worship to Fire) which takes place each night along the bank of the Ganges is certainly worth a visit to get a taste of the Hindu religion. The performance is lead by a group of priests wherein a dedication is made to Lord Shiva, River Ganges, Sun, Fire, and the whole universe.

Day 5 – Varanasi

Another ghat which is certainly worth a visit is the Assi Ghat, around a 2km walk through the busy streets from Zostel Hostel. The area is full of cafes, many of which supporting local charitable causes, so we pay a visit to the Open Hand Cafe, which serves some great breakfast items as well as delicious sweet treats! The cafe is one of two in India, functioning as a fair trade shop which sells handmade products made in the local community, as well as a shoes off cafe where you will be sure to get a good coffee!

We decide to take a rickshaw for the journey back rather than walk amongst Varansi’s traffic. It can often be a slightly less stressful way to enjoy the sites of this holy city and to avoid stepping in cow poo! Due to it’s holiness, the streets of Varanasi are full of roaming cows as they are considered to be extremely sacred creatures in the Hindu religion. It is believed that by honouring this gentle animal, Hindu’s are honouring all other creatures. With this highly regarded status, cows have a pretty good life in India and can do whatever they want. You often see them standing outside shops or homes waiting for food!

Architecture along the Ganges

Another one of our recommendations is the Brown Bread Bakery, located in the heart of Varanasi’s network of alleys just a short walk from the main Dashashwamedh Ghat so its very easy to become lost. Don’t be fooled by several fake Brown Bread Bakeries which unfortunately exist! The bakery started off in 2006 as the first organic eatery in Varanasi and now offers an amazing selection of cheese and bread all produced by the women empowerment group of the Learn for Life society.

As a Holy City, alcohol is banned on the banks of the river at the ghats and is relatively difficult to get hold of otherwise. However you will find that many places do serve it in a very hush-hush manner for a higher than average price. We did manage on a few occasions to have the odd beer whilst eating, but Varanasi is not really the type of place for late night drinking. The hostel does however have a rooftop terrace where you can enjoy a beer up until 11pm, after a day spent exploring the chaotic city streets.

Day 6 – Varanasi

Our hostel offers various trips around the city and today we decide to venture a little further to visit some of the many temples in Varanasi. It’s a great way to see areas which you probably wouldn’t otherwise visit, from the back of a rickshaw. Let’s not forget the typical trip to one of the many local silk shops, which is extremely common in India as the rickshaw drivers often receive commission from the shop owners if their customer decides to purchase anything.  By no means feel pressured to buy , as you are under no obligation to do so. Although I did feel slightly guilty for not buying anything after the

Teaching us the traditional methods

shop owner had took out all of his silk samples and talked us through each one! We also pay a visit to the place where the products are made, a small room with an older man intricately making a silk scarf using a foot mechanism made of bamboo. Very impressive and interesting to see that so many of the traditional methods are still used despite the current era of mass manufacturing.

Later in the day we take a boat ride up and down the River Ganges to see the city from a different angle. This only costs 150 INR each and is another trip offered by the hostel, possibly a better option than going with one of the local touts down by the main ghat who prey on tourists and may charge a much higher price! The boat takes us up past Manikarnika, the main cremation ghat where the non-stop burning of corpses takes place. In Hinduism cremation is the most common practise after death, with the ashes being dispersed into a sacred body of water. On the banks of the River Ganges, bodies are washed in the holy waters then wrapped in orange cloth and carried on bamboo to the burning platform. From the boat we are unable to see much however being so close to such a holy procedure is an extremely surreal experience.

Day 7 – Varanasi

After seeing the cremations from a distance we decide to visit the Manikarnika Ghat from the ground to truly understand the Hindu religion, as grim as it may seem to us coming from a culture where we are not used with such customs.

The River Ganges

On approach you can instantly feel the heat from the fires, however there is no pungent smell as you would expect because the banyan wood which is used for cremations prevents this. We are befriended by a local man who tells us about the cremation process and that in fact not everyone is cremated, as certain people are considered to be pure and put straight into the River Ganges, such as pregnant women, children and animals. Many of these bodies then float to the other side of the river where the story is that there are tribes living on the banks of the Ganges who eat the flesh as part of their Hindu belief. Our new local friend then takes us through the burning ceremony, which we are slightly unconformable about but he persists and points out the remains of skull in amongst the fire! Walking though the ghat is a little intimidating as you feel as if you are an uninvited guest at a funeral, but it does not seem to be frowned upon as much as you might expect. A visit to this ghat after dark is not advised as it can be dangerous so we were told.

Exploring the Ganges by boat

It seems that the so-called friendly local man who only wanted to show us around is actually seeking a donation of money towards the wood used for cremations of those who are unable to afford it once they pass away. When we offer him 40 INR each, between four of us, he isn’t happy , demanding that we give more as this amount will not buy anything. Despite first having asked for a ‘donation’, it’s very strange how he was now asking for an amount of 100 INR each! We decide to give him the 40 INR and leave before the situation escalates. Thankfully as we were in a group we felt like we could say “no” and walk away, however we did hear of others at our hostel who had the same thing happen with some being unlucky and having paid around 200 INR for something that wasn’t exactly official. It’s best to try and avoid these people and say “no” from the start.

After hearing about the wonderful Blue Lassi, it’s top of our list to do before leaving. Here you can sip the amazing yogurt drink topped with a choice of toppings from one of the shops rustic clay pots, whilst watching the constant procession of bodies through the narrow streets as they are taken to the river. It’s tucked away in the depths of the Varanasi alley network but is very popular with visiting tourists, due to their use of traditional methods and recipes! You might also see signs for a Bhang Lassi, which involves the addition of cannabis and possibly more narcotics. As Varanasi is the only city in India where it is legal, proceed with caution if you are planning on trying it, as we heard that it can leave a lasting effect!

Yogurt drinks at Blue Lassi – an absolute must when visiting the sacred city

That evening we take the night train to Agra, on this occasion swapping the tight fitting three bunk-beds for a more spacious two with a privacy curtain. Despite the slightly higher price, it is certainly a much better choice than our previous journey, and this time we come prepared with plenty of snacks!

Find out what we got up to at our next destination here.

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Did you try out Blue Lassi of Varanasi? What did you get up to in the Holy City? We would love to hear about your thoughts & experiences!

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Feel free to let me know what you thought of this article, I always love feedback and finding ways how to improve my writing!

How to travel India in 30 days : First stop Kolkata, West Bengal

Day 1 – Kathmandu > Kolkata

Today is our final day in Nepal, and what an amazing two weeks it has been! The trekking here is great and we would definitely recommend it. We have found the people very friendly, especially those living in the mountainous areas where they all greet you with “Namaste”, meaning “Hello” in Nepali.

Masala Omelette

In Nepal festivals are numerous, one of the most anticipated being Dashain, as it is the longest and most auspicious. This particular festival celebrates the victory of good over evil. One of the main days of Dashain is in fact today, so many street vendors and eateries are closed and the streets of Thamel are much quieter than normal. We try our luck at Phat Kath, a cafe that we eaten in the day before and surprisingly they are open. According to the water they are open 365 days a year, perfect! I sample a Nepali breakfast which includes a chapatti of course, a masala omelette, fried potatoes with onions & peppers and a lassi style yoghurt (you will find out more about these later on). Apparently the chapatti should be dipped into the yoghurt, and it is strangely tasty!

Upon arriving at the airport for our flight, we discover that the visa forms for India I have printed are in fact the application forms and not the actual visa! Thankfully the check in staff allow us to use the Wi-Fi to access our visa and the issue is resolved, but a word of advice, the confirmation to say the visa has been granted is what you actually need!

After a slightly bumpy start, but a short journey of 1hour 15minutes  with Air India we start to descend into a very green looking Kolkata. Once off the flight and through to immigration, it’s clear that the man behind the desk isn’t happy about our lack of correct paperwork. But after a signature verification and a few questions about the where’s and when’s of our trip we are finally into India!

The best way into the city is with one of the trademark yellow taxis of Kolkata. If you pay in the main arrival area, the cost should be no more than 455 INR which will get you into the central areas. I get the impression that not all taxi drivers are very familiar with the city as they should be due to the constant asking for directions, but we eventually arrive at our accommodation which is in the Taltala area of Kolkata on Doctor Lane. From looking online, hostels in the city don’t appear to be plentiful, so we opted for the Georgian Inn, a basic yet relatively comfortable guesthouse.

We steal some tips and advice from the few Western tourists staying there too, and decide to head out with one Australian guy who recommends a local eatery just yards away. Stepping out into the evening streets and already we feel the intensity that is India, lots of gawping stares, beeping mopeds and crazy smells.

The food is a spicy vegetable style curry served with slightly mouldy chapatti bread, but for a small price of 70 INR how on earth can you complain! Its certainly not somewhere where you will bump into many other tourists, however that’s the joy of these places. You really get a true taste of the local culture!

Day 2 – Exploring Kolkata

Without any particular plan for the day, we head out into the street of Kolkata. They are exactly how I imagined India to be, and it is certainly not a country for those afraid of embracing the wonderful culture India has to offer.With a population of just over 1.3 billion, and many of the countries people living in poverty,it really opened our eyes as to how lucky we really are.

Bustling streets of Kolkata

We wonder further through the streets, map in hand, as it is very easy to get lost and despite much of the population having knowledge of English, it can often be difficult to communicate especially when asking for directions.  The train booking office is on our route, located on Fairlie Place, so we pop by in the hope of booking a ticket for our onward journey to Varanasi the following day. However be warned, this process is not as quick and easy as you may imagine. For purchasing tickets you must fill in an application form and wait for the number to be called, and remember to carry your passport when doing so or else you could be refused a ticket! The wait in this particular office was around 3 hours, so it may be worth buying several tickets if you have an itinerary planned, to save further waiting elsewhere. In our experience, this was the longest we had to wait for tickets, however there are always unorganised queues in many of the booking offices so be prepared to be patient.

The remainder of the day is spent walking what feels like miles throughout the city, with a very shameful stop off at a Dominoes Pizza outlet. From now on we’ve agreed its local cuisine only!

Day 3 – Kolkata > Varanasi

Today we take the night train to Varanasi, our next destination, leaving us with the full day to see a little more of the city. Another wonder through the crowded streets takes us to Victoria Memorial, a popular spot for tourists and slightly similar looks wise to the Taj Mahal due to its white colour and grand gardens.

Victoria Memorial

Its a small fee of 70 INR to enter the gardens, however to the price to enter the palace itself is a slight difference between 100 INR for Indian nationals and 700 INR for foreign tourists, something that we noticed with the price for a lot of other things! Its a beautiful break from the hustle and bustle of the chaotic streets. We soon realise that the memorial isn’t the only thing being photographed, and that we ourselves are a popular attraction amongst the Indian tourists! It’s a nice feeling to make their day, as many of them don’t often see Caucasian people. St Paul’s Anglican Cathedral is another interesting site to see the history left behind following the British rule over India.

To compensate for our lack of Indian cuisine so far, we eat at Blue Sky Cafe located in the Sudder Street area, which is a must if you are looking for a tasty and varied menu at budget prices.

The chaos at Howrah Junction

Our train leaves from Howrah Junction railway station, which is in fact the oldest and busiest in India. The station itself is as hectic as you would imagine, people rushing to and from trains, and we even spot a tiny puppy wondering aimlessly amongst the chaos. You will find that there are also lots of beggars, and its difficult not to give them money, however we were always recommended not to, as this will only encourage it. Trains in India are divided into classes from 1st to 5th, some of which have AC and basic bunk-beds, others have no windows and have minimal space for sleeping. We opted for 3rd class tickets, which is essentially means that there are three bunk-beds per row as well as much need air-conditioning! I imagine that 1st and 2nd class are much nicer, if your budget stretches to this.

We were advised to buy a chain to lock up luggage onto the bars beneath the seats, as there have been reports of thefts so its better to be safe than sorry! As this was our first experience on a sleeper train we decided to keep our backpacks on the the bunk-beds while we slept, slightly uncomfortable being two tall people. The train is compact with not much space to move around especially when there are six people in one small compartment, but the advantage is having your own bed with complimentary towels and sheets.  It is possible to buy food and drinks on the train, but only to purchase from the those working on-board and not strangers, as there have been reports of items being drugged, so beware! Many of the Indian travellers on the other hand are very much prepared for the long journey, bringing with them a selection of food.

Once we both manage to get comfortable, after a few disputes over who’s seat was who’s (something which happens on almost all trains), it was time to try and catch a few hours of uninterrupted sleep  on the 14 hour journey!

Find out what we got up to at our next destination here.

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What were your first impression’s of India? How did you find the sleeper train experience? We would love to hear about your thoughts & experiences!

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Feel free to let me know what you thought of this article, I always love feedback and finding ways how to improve my writing!